Cajun Shrimp and Andouille Chili

This is a gumbo and a chili shaking hands over a pot. It starts where every great Cajun dish starts — smoky andouille browned hard, and the "holy trinity" of onion, celery, and bell pepper softened in its fat — then builds into a fast, fiery, tomato-based chili studded with sweet Gulf shrimp. The authentic Louisiana touch is filé powder, ground sassafras leaf, stirred in off the heat at the very end to thicken and add its distinctive earthy note. The shrimp go in last so they stay plump and tender, and hot sauce at the table takes it as far as you dare. It's bold, brash, and moves fast — a weeknight taste of the bayou.

Serve over rice to soak up the brothy base, with plenty of hot sauce and scallions.

Filé powder is the authentic thickener and finish — add it off the heat only. Smoked kielbasa subs for andouille (add extra Cajun seasoning). Keep the shrimp addition to the last few minutes no matter what. Crusty bread works if you skip the rice.