Jackfruit Ancho Chili Tacos

Young green jackfruit is the great chameleon of the plant kitchen — simmered in a good sauce, it shreds into strands that mimic pulled pork with almost unfair accuracy. Here it soaks up a smoky, brick-red ancho chile sauce spiked with a little brown sugar and vinegar, cooking down until it's saucy, tangy, and pull-apart tender, ready to pile into warm corn tortillas. It's the kind of taco filling that quietly wins over skeptics: nobody at the table has to eat a "special" meal, because this one just tastes good on its own terms — meat-eaters and vegans reaching for the same pot.

Warm the tortillas over a flame for char. Avocado, pickled onion, cilantro, and a lime squeeze all suit it.

Canned jackfruit in brine (not syrup) is essential — drain and rinse well. Guajillo chiles can join or replace some ancho for a brighter edge.